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The area’s specialty is a sweet dessert wine, called Sciacchetrà, which means “push and pull” in the local dialect. Since the stuff is made from grapes left long on the vine and shriveled almost to raisins, it requires pushing a lot of grapes into the press to pull out the best wine. The aged variety can be quite pricey and is seriously alcoholic — 18 percent versus the 11 percent of normal wine.

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